Sunday, March 14, 2010

Jalie 2794 via PMB

This week, I created a PMB version of Jalie 2794. The Jalie patterns are cut very close, and I prefer a less-close fit, so I decided to just copy the style lines and use my basic PMB block to create this look.

Well, my first attempt was close but no cigar! I forgot a few basic but essential steps for creating a pattern for a knit top.

For one thing, I forgot to raise the armhole depth.

Another thing, I forgot to scale the pattern...reducing it in width to account for the fabric's stretch. This thing was huge!

As I evaluated the fit, I wondered if I needed more 'bust cup'...a larger bust dart and a smaller F-armhole. It was a tough call, since the armhole was too low anyway, and the whole thing too wide.

You may (or may not) remember that I had been working on getting the armholes balanced...getting the front and back armholes the right size for my body. On the last few tops I made, I was getting very close...but suspected I might still need a tiny bit more bust dart and a smaller front armhole. Then I started sewing on a quilt and sort of stalled on my fitting process.

Since the underarm was so low, I basted a 0.375" folded tuck across each side of the front and again across the back, between the neck and underarm...basically raising the armholes by 0.75".

This improved the underarm depth dramatically, so I decided to try this top again and raise the underarm depth on the next one without making any changes to the dart size...but definitely I will SCALE the pattern smaller for the knit!

Well, I have just finished sewing that new one. It is better, but I can tell I should have changed the dart size, too. No pics yet...check back! But I used the same fabric...more leopard it will look amazingly similar.


Kirsten said...

Hi Trish, I have been wanting to make this top as in forever. Would you mind either emailing or posting here on your blog the PMB settings or PE changes. I dont know if you still have my email address, can send you a PM message in WG forums. Would really appreciate it.
PMB user

Trish said...

Hi Kirsten! Good to hear from you! Sure, I'll do that...

Kirsten said...

Thanks Trish, this will be my shortcut to Jalie 2794. I know all knits are different, but in your case how much did you scale the pattern. I have tried this a few times and never seem to scale enough, also too nervous to land up with a top that fits no-one.

Trish said...

Kirsten, I scaled my pattern 96% horiz and 100% vertically (UNcheck the PROPORTIONALLY box), but I started with 2" bust ease. If I start with less ease and scale the same amount, I would get a smaller top. I know you knew that...but just in case! :)

Kirsten said...

Thanks Trish, it must have been a very big effort to put all this on your blog, so I really appreciate it. I did not think about putting some of the dart in the underarm seam, I was thinking of putting it all CF, your method makes sense.
Scaling, I am so afraid of overscaling and landing up with a top for my 4 yr old GD. I think I must just take the plunge and learn from my mistakes if necessary.

Patti's Blog said...

Trish: I really like what you've done. Like Kristen, I would love you to email me your PMB settings? Any chance of getting a PE file? Thank you. I follow your blog with great interest.

Trish said...

Hi Patti! I posted my drafting settings at the end of the next post...was there a specific setting that you needed that perhaps I overlooked? I'd be glad to share.
The images in my next post represent my PE file detailing the creation of this style. You wouldn't want to use my actual patterns, though, as my back pattern's neck was mistakenly too large, causing the shoulders to 'hang wide'. I'm gonna try this one more time! :)

Patti's Blog said...

Thanks Trish. What you posted is perfect.

Kirsten said...

Trish, I dont know how you feel, but why dont you post this on the WG forum. It is almost a pity that so few of us should benefit from your knowledge hard work. There are quite a few new ones there. Just a thought. Kirsten

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