Thursday, March 31, 2011

Fixing PMB's 2pc sleeve

In PMB, I chose the 2pc sleeve.

I kept the HEM CIRCUMFERENCE at 8" to get the maximum cap width and elbow width. Drafting a wider hem will make the cap more narrow.

I used ZERO CAP HEIGHT, hoping to eliminate folds in the back sleeve cap.

To get a bigger BACK CAP AREA, I chose ARMSCYE UNSEWN as the back dart position, but DID NOT use that on the bodice.

This is how the sleeve pattern looked:

To begin, I located a point on the underarm 'arc' that was 1.5" from the notch that represents the sideseam...the UnderArm notch.

I cut the arc on that new point and moved the lateral portion to the front of the Oversleeve. I also extended the HEM LINES on both pieces to get my desired hem circumference.

Actually, my instructions are on each picture, so perhaps a picture really is worth a thousand words?


Welmoed said...


This should help me greatly.

Grammy aka Marilyn said...

Thank you sooo much for the great details and wonderful pictures. I hope I can find it again when I go to make a jacket w/a 2 pc. sleeve.

MarilynR in IL

BJ in TX said...

You are nothing short of genius!!! Thanks!

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