Sunday, July 12, 2009

Ladybug top

I recently finished sewing another top, but even before finishing suddenly occurred to me what I might need to do (on the next one!) to get my armholes to be 'right'.

For this top, I sewed the pattern just as drafted in PMB, with no editting in PE...well, except for the facings, which don't match the pattern (arrgh!)...UNTIL my alterations during fitting, that is!

Now, on the last top, Peach#2, I had decided that those diagonal pulls in front meant I had to increase the front length. Well, I tried that and it was NOT good. I did NOT need the extra front length. I finally realized that what was causing the diagonal pulls was inadequate waist and hip ease at the sideseams…so I altered to sew the SS a bit smaller to provide some ease there at the waist/hip area. For some reason, I had drafted with 1” less hip ease than usual (trying to control the size of the waist darts, I suspect, as I had also used less waist ease which produces bigger waist darts).

I also tried lengthening the shoulder slope measurements, thinking UP was the only way to go (as mentioned in my last blog post). Well, UP was NOT the way to go! I got linebacker shoulders, with lots of room for pads! Trying to be thorough, though, I did go ahead and set in a sleeve, just to see what happens. It looked awful…that is what happened. The sleeve pushed all this excess fabric downward. So I restored the shoulders to their proper height and tried various alterations to the sleeve pattern to improve the pitch…still, the sleeves were bad. The armhole is not right yet.

In my research, I ran across something that made a light bulb light up over my head, and I *think* I will do better next time…well, not next time, as that one is already underway and nearly finished! But the NEXT 'next time'! :)

Here is a clue: Look at the front armhole depth compared to the back armhole. The back armhole is as high as I can get it…touching skin. But the front is lower…there is room to come up.

Now, you may remember, I have been TRYING to get that front armhole ‘scooped’ to provide adequate ease in the armhole for forward reaching…that was my goal, and I accomplished that by reducing the BUST CUP size I was using to draft with.

To illustrate, I put on this Ladybug top over the Peach#2 top, to show how the F-armholes compare. The Bcup (Ladybug) scoops the front ah a bit lower than the Ccup (Peach#2). And actually, I am now wondering if I might prefer the Ccup!
But when the ‘light bulb’ lit up, things just began to make sense. It seemed like this ‘solution’ would solve ALL my armhole and sleeve issues…and it is such an easy fix! Of course, I can’t tell you what it is until I test it…


Debbie Soles said...

Hey Patricia;

But when the ‘light bulb’ lit up, things just began to make sense. It seemed like this ‘solution’ would solve ALL my armhole and sleeve issues…and it is such an easy fix! Of course, I can’t tell you what it is until I test it…

You're such a tease!:))) Can I guess? I think I have it...maybe the key ? "backwards?"....when it comes to armhole shapes? Or is it the side dart location on sideseam in relation to body/bust shape?

And now I must wait....!:)))


Trish said...

WEll, Debbie, it wasn't as easy as I hoped it would be! I am not positive about what exactly you were guessing...backwards? Did you mean Shoulder Point? or Sideseam? The SS *is* too far forward at the upper end, in my opinion, so I will be moving it backwards! That wasn't my lightbulb moment, but you WERE correct! Does that mean you get a cookie? :)

Debbie Soles said...

Ah do know I've been checking back everyday!:)))

What I meant about backwards...see where the fabric is hitting on your body at the back armscye, mainly in the middle area to lower area? Then see how it's all scooped out in the front? It's almost like I want to switch those, have it more out towards arm in front and reverse in back. Since you've been posting these sleeveless garments and trying to get the armholes right I've been checking out every sleeveless garment I've come across. Alot of them were awful, but then I saw this gal the other day and her sleeveless armhole was about as close to perfect as it could get. And her sleeveless armhole shape was opposite of your's. That just got me to thinking. When she moved her arms forward there was no strain on her very fitted top through the upper back, and I think it was because the back armhole was "backed off" that arm crease. I also guess this depends on your body shape right at that area. In the front the armhole shape almost followed the crease and sharply turned under the arm, there was no scooping to that front armhole shape. So that's what I meant about "backwards", and have been meaning to get back in here and explain that!:))) What can I say..I've been in peasantblouseville!:)))

I'm not sure what you thought I was correct about because I'm usually not correct about most you might want to hang onto that cookie until you read this latest nonsense!:)))

Does this mean I can stop following women who are wearing sleeveless tops?:)))


Debbie Soles said... just dawned on're not making a sleeveless top..right? You're wanting to put sleeves in those armholes..right? Told ya to hang onto that cookie!:)))

Patricia do you like the angle and position of your side dart? Looking at that side view, have you ever considered having the sewn dart come out straight from apex to sideseam vs. that angled up position? If you did that would it affect the front's balance when it comes to bringing the garment back onto grain..which is what a side dart should do..right?


Trish said...

Debbie, thanks for your insights! This is very helpful, because I was beginning to think along these same lines, but was kinda hesitant, because it is so BACKWARDS from what I have been trying to achieve!!! :) But after comparing my pattern to a pattern that was draped on me, I began to come to that conclusion, too.

Hopefully, it will also improve the sleeves I am getting.

And, YES, you can stop stalking the sleeveless women of the world! :)

And NO, I *do not* like the angle of the side dart. I have discovered that in PMB, the larger I make the cup size, the more level that dart becomes. But I can only go so large...a Ccup seems I'll have to work on the dart angle myself (in PE), I guess!

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