Sunday, March 24, 2013

Sleeves, take two!

The new sleeve pattern was MUCH better! 
I probably could have even lowered the sleeve cap a bit more for some additional mobility, but I think this sleeve is fine since it is so short.
I used a CAP HEIGHT of -1 on this SET IN SLEEVE.
Which means I could probably have used a CP HT of -1.5, I think.
On the PREVIOUS sleeve, I did use a CP HT of -1.5, but it was a different sleeve choice...
That was the CAP SLEEVE.
So, the correct cap height choice depends on WHICH sleeve style you make!
After printing my sleeve pattern, I was STILL a bit concerned about that dramatic upward swoop of the hem.
The shape just seemed so...severe.
So I added .5" to the overall cap length by redrawing (with pencil on the paper) as indicated by the blue line on this pattern.  That blue line became my cutting line.
I used .375" seam allowance on the lower/hem edge...5/8" on the others, simply because that is what I had used on the dress.
I really prefer using smaller...3/8"...seam allowances, but when the outcome is uncertain, best to use larger!
I once again cut each sleeve from the lace and from the gold mesh.
I aligned the pieces RST and sewed the lower/hem edge.
Then I understitched that edge, pressing the seam allowances toward the gold mesh.

 I folded the mesh to the inside and positioned the pieces WST, pinning carefully along the hem edge to align the layers without letting either side shift backwards or forward at that hem seam. 
Then I pressed well.
After basting the cap edges together, these sleeves were inserted into the dress without major incidents!
Lastly, I serged the armhole seam, cutting off most of the seam allowance, as it would be pressed out toward the sleeve and I didn't want a big seam allowance showing through the lace. 
1/4 inch was fine.
Yes, it would probably have been nice to bind that seam in lining fabric...I didn't.
Now it was time for a closure at the back neck edge.
I had already tried a small hook and eye on the inside, but it kept coming loose during way was it going to hold during dancing!
I needed a button.
Looking through my stash, hoping to find a set of buttons to cover with the dress fabric didn't produce any buttons small enough.
So I started looking for 'regular' buttons, holding little hope of finding any the right color but making the effort anyway. 
 But what do you know!?  In my grandmother's button stash, there was a little plastic ziplock bag containing 6 small purple buttons!
These buttons were just right! 
Not too big.
Not too small.
Not too  shiny.
Just right!
So I sewed one of these buttons onto the left neck edge of my dress, then made a thread loop on the right side.
The dress closes nicely now!
I haven't tried dancing yet, but if it will hold tight long enough for me to put the dress on and get the hem marked, then I think I will trust it for the night!

Oh, and have you  noticed the color of these images? 
All different.
This purple shows up as blue much of the time.
No telling HOW this dress will show up in the official photos!


Dale said...

It is promising to be a stunning dress, perfect for MOG. ;)

Trish said...

Thanks, Dale!

Anonymous said...

I can't wait to see you wearing it.. The color is beautiful and I know your fit will be so comfy that you will just dance all night!! :)


Trish said...

Thanks, Rosemary! I hope so...!

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