The Pleated Dress, completed

As promised, here are some pictures of the completed pleated dress.




The fabric I used had an all-over print (feathers!), which made the pleating a bit hard to see in photos. Here is a close up, but it still doesn't show the details...I guess you had to be there!


After cutting out the front pattern and marking all the dart/pleats, I fused a piece of interfacing to the 'tab' area, to help give it a bit of support. I extended the interfacing to what would be the dart/pleat's center 'fold-line' on each side of the tab, so that when the pleats that create the tab are folded, the interfacing will fill the fold on each side of the pleat, to avoid a knife-sharp edge. However, pressing the pleat while it is basted created a pretty sharp fold there anyway!

Once the horizontal pleats are basted closed, I could then baste the 'dart' on each side of the tab. After basting the dart/pleat closed, I then sewed (permanent) again about .5" away from the basting, to close the dart/pleat permanently. You can see how the tab's dart legs on each side of the tab are now of equal length.

Since I decided to do an all-in-one facing, I block-fused some rough-cut interfacing to my fabric before cutting out the pattern pieces.




Here is the completed dress. So much for the lighting...

I really struggled with deciding what length to make this dress. I was encouraged to go shorter...so I did. I wasn't uncomfortable wearing it, but it is shorter than anything I have worn in a while. I don't generally wear high heels, as my DH is not much taller than I am and I don't want to tower over him.

Here is another close up...from the other side/angle.

You might have noticed that I did some contouring under the bust. Remember in my last post, when I did the muslin, I was aware of a bit of excess fabric under the bust and so, decided to move the Bust Points closer to the center? Well, as I said, that was not the solution...and it actually had a negative impact on the fit in the bust area! What I really needed to do was a bit of contouring under the bust.

Here is my front pattern. I have indicated where I made changes...in bold hot pink (although I DID shorten the dress 2"...that is not shown!)

Look closely at the front (vertical) waist darts.

Basically, first I located the level that was 5" below my Bust Point, then increased the width of the front waist dart between that 5" level and waist level...offsetting the dart leg on each side by .25". This removed an additional .5" on each side of the front... a full inch of fabric across the whole front. But, notice, the original waist dart was not a 'normal' dart to start with...it was not a '/\' shape. I had already drawn that dart straight up from the waist to a level that was 3" below the BP. This was done to provide some contouring, but apparently it was not enough.

In my design choices, I had selected a SIDE/WAIST POINT position of 1...which means I made the total width across the front pattern 1" larger at waist level than the total width across the back pattern at waist level. That turned out to be too much. Increasing the size of the front waist dart would be the equivalent of a SIDE/WAIST POINT position of .5...meaning the front pattern's waist measured .5" more than the back pattern's waist, instead of the 1" as before. Better.

For the lower end of the waist dart, I drew curve lines to blend with the original dart legs (full tummy).

On the full front pattern above, also notice the hot pink lines at the sideseams at hip level. I had to reshape those during fitting, removing about .25" on each side (front and back), which means I lost about 1" of hip ease. But THE POINT of the reshaping was to smooth the curves there. TAPERING the hem created a point on the sideseam that my body doesn't have! Perhaps the start of the tapering should begin at a level just below the hip...? I just used the TAPERED HEM choice...there is no HIP SHAPE adjustment available on the SHEATHS, as there is on the PANTS.

Using the Tapered Hem choice creates another problem...the tapering extends all the way to the hem, instead of stopping 2" ABOVE hem level and drawing straight side seams to the hem. The way it is drafted, when the hem is turned under, the cut/free edge of the hem is smaller than the circumference of the dress at that higher level... something I forgot to consider beforehand.

I drafted this dress at 40" long, but then decided to hem it 2" shorter...at 38".

Here is a back shot...not terribly flattering but you can see the kick pleat.

In both the front and the back necklines, there was a bit of gaping. This gaping was NOT there in the muslin, but I had not cut the neckline away (wider) on the muslin as I did on this 'real thing'. I forgot to compensate for the contouring of my shoulders, which are curved lower in the middle than on each end of the shoulder seam. While my books tell me that I should have lowered the shoulder end of the neck seam, I can't help but wonder if I should also have raised the arm end of the shoulder seam...like a see/saw! I know that makes no sense...but that is just how I think! :)

I did use the facing and lining patterns that I showed in my previous post. Here is the dress inside out on my paper-tape dress form:

Yes, it is wrinkled a bit from sitting/wear but not too badly. I LOVE wearing things that are lined in Bemberg Rayon!! It feels so luscious to the touch...my skin just loves it!

I *hope* my dress form has posture that is much worse than my own!?! Those shoulders are very uneven...I hope mine are not as bad NOW as they were then! But I suspect they are...

The Pleated Dress...creation

To create the pattern for the pleated dress, I started with a basic sheath...a dress with darts but no waist seam. (I'll post my PMB style sheet at the end of this post).

I copied and mirrored the FRONT piece so I would have a complete FRONT pattern.

Next I created the 'tab'. I located a point on the neckline that was 1" from the center front. I wanted my tab to be 1.5" wide, so I created a circle around the bust point that was also 1.5" in diameter. Then I drew a line from the point on neck to the side of the bust circle. I OFFSET that line by 1.5" to create the other side of the tab...then I decided to shorten the ends to be 2" away from the bust point (after the muslin, however, I reduced this amount to 1"). I rotated the right bust dart to this tab, putting half of the dart on each side.

Next I had to decide on the location of the pleats. This was kind of trial and error, using what looked right. Once I was happy with the location of the pleats, I rotated the left bust dart to the lowest pleat line. I KNEW this would create a pleat that was much too large, but once sewn, the excess fabric in the back could be removed, so that this pleat would have a seam instead of a fold.

I had a harder time with the placement of the 3 smaller darts on the right of the tab. To be sure I liked the way they lookeed, I printed my front pattern in quarter scale and folded the little darts and pleats closed. I could tell I didn't love the first attempt (on the left), so I respaced the pleats and moved them closer to the neckline. Nope, that wasn't it either (middle one)...so I respaced them a third time...better. Now it was time to try this is fabric.

I marked all the darts/pleats on my fabric and began sewing. First, I basted the horizontal pleats and sewed the vertical waist darts.

Then I put a row of stitching about 0.5" away from the basting on that large pleat that is also the dart...that stitching will be permanent. At this point, I wondered if it might be a good idea to stitch close to the fold on EACH of the pleats, so they would tend to be neater...(?). Not being sure, I did go ahead and do that stitching. On the 'real' dress, I omitted that, though.

Once the pleats were done, I could stitch...baste...both sides of the 'tab'. Like the big dart, this one also had to have 'real' stitching (permanent) that was about .5" away from the basting, because this pleat is also a dart.

At this point, it occurred to me that once the basting of the tab is removed, it will 'spread', and that is NOT a good thing...so it would need to be stabilized. I used hand stitches to keep the dart folds close to each other, to prevent the spreading.

This is the muslin on my dress form. It was a good fit, but I felt like there was a but too much fullness UNDER the bust. I wanted the vertical waist darts to be closer to center, so I decided to reduce the distance between bustpoints...which meant I had to completely redo the pattern! And FYI, this turned out NOT to be a great idea...I should have left the location alone, or at least, not move it the full INCH that I did! :)

Here, the pleats are still basted closed. But you can kinda get the idea, I hope!

Next time, I'll show the 'real thing'!

Here are my design choices:

Style Details

Style Name: 100615_basic_sheath
Date: 6/15/2010
Last Update: April 1, 2010
Chart: Trish 050710_waist_HIP

Garment Type: Sheath
Style: Classic Sheath
Closure: Back Zipper
Front Neckline: Jewel
Back Neckline: Jewel
Hemline Sweep: Tapered
Back Kick Pleat: Yes
Front Darts: Side
Back Darts: No Darts
Sideseam Shape: Fitted

Front Waist Darts: 1
Back Waist Darts: 2

Front Neckline Depth: 1.5
Back Neckline Depth: 1.375
Neckline Width: 2.5
Neckline Point: 0
Back Neckline Shape Right: 1 clicks

Armhole Depth: 0
Dart Override: 0

Side/Arm Point: -1
Side/Waist Point: 1
Side/Hip Point: 0

Cf/Extension: 0
Cb/Extension: 0

Shoulder Pad: 0
Shoulder Point: -0.375

Sheath Length: Knee
Finished Cb/Hem Length: 40
Hip Depth: 8
Kick Pleat Height: 8

Bust Pt Vertical: 10.25
Bust Pt Horizontal: 4.5
Upper Front Dart Length: 1
Upper Back Dart Length: 0
Lower Front Dart Length: 8
Lower Back Dart Length: 5.5
Back Shoulder Dart Length: 4


Sleeve Style: Facing
Sleeve Length: Wrist*** This is wrong; this was sleeveless (hence, the FACING).
Sleeve Cap Ease: 1.45
Sleeve Elbow Depth: 8
Sleeve Elbow Circum.: 10
Back Armhole Shape Up: 0.2 clicks
Back Armhole Shape Right: 0.2 clicks


Seam Allowance: 0.375
Hem Allowance: 2
Facing Width: 2

Chest Ease: 1
Waist Ease: 2
Hip Ease: 4.5


Body Measurements

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 15.75
Neck Circumference: 13
Natural Waist: 35
Hip Circumference: 41
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: D
Center Front Length: 15
Front Shoulder Width: 15
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.5
Shoulder Length: 5
Center Back Length: 16.5
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.875
Bicep Circumference: 12
Notes: increased waist and decreased hip to 'real' (1" each)
USE MORE HIP EASE ON BLOUSES!

sneak peak

I have been working on a new pattern lately. It is a bit more complicated than my usual fare...my DD refers to it as my 'origami dress'. Here is a pattern picture:

The two sets of pieces on the right are the lining and facing pieces...I haven't yet decided if they will be used as is. I am thinking the facing...an all-in-one...will be fashion fabric, and the lining will be bemberg rayon (I hope).

My fashion fabric is from the stash...a mystery fabric that was in a collection I obtained from a garage sale several years ago. But the entire collection was good stuff...lots of silks and wools...so I am pretty sure this is 'good', too. I suspect it is a cotton and silk blend.

Today I printed the front and back patterns. I began assembling the front pattern...which took 20 sheets of paper to print! At first , the assembly went fairly well, but gradually, the registration marks began to be further and further 'off'...and by the time I got to the last column, it was nearly 1/4" longer than the first one! Needless to say, I was sorry I had used glue...I had to pull the sheets apart and start again, trying to 'make it work'!

I have been using PATTERNMASTER BOUTIQUE by Wild Ginger for over 10 years, so I am not new to pattern assembly. And I have had this same printer for most (if not ALL) of that time! Every now and then, it happens...usually when there are LOTS of pages to be printed.

I am using Windows 7 these days. I had installed PMB4 on my computer while using Vista, then installed it again when Windows 7 was loaded. That used up BOTH of my installation keys for PMB4...you are only allowed to load it twice. But I also now have a 'virtual computer' (loaded on Windows 7) that runs in XP mode, so I need to uninstall the PMB4 version that is loaded on the drive that uses Vista so I can get a new key...then I can load it on the 'virtual computer' and run PMB4 in XP mode, so that, HOPEFULLY, I will once again be able to print my patterns on banner paper. The printer drivers for the newer operatings systems don't support the 'banner' printing option, even though the printer is capable! Duh...I guess all the new printers are more geared towards photo printing.

But I used to print on banner paper and it was SOOOO much easier and quicker. When this pattern assembly messed up today, I was once again reminded that I REALLY SHOULD move that to the top of my to-do list!

The Red Floral KK knit top

Here is my latest knit top:

This pattern was made similarly to the black and white one, except this time I didn't lower the front shoulder angle.

I DID reduce both the CENTER FRONT LENGTH and the FRONT SHOULDER SLOPE measurements by 0.5", though, because I knew the knit fabric would stretch to accomodate my body's curves in front...and using a shorter CFL produces a smaller bust dart, so there is less dart to 'get rid of' from the start.

I also INCREASED my BUST measurement from 41.5" to 42"...not much, but this also made the bust dart smaller, so there was less dart to eliminate in the process of going 'dartless'.

Also, I INCREASED the SHOULDER LENGTH measurement in my chart for this one...because when I rotate that remaining little dart closed, it increases the width of the neck opening on the front pattern. By increasing the SHL I have created a more-narrow front neck to start with, so that when I rotate the little dart closed, the resulting front neck width matches the back neck width.

I DID NOT scale this pattern at all...I used it as drafted, with zero bust ease. In hindsight, I *should* have used MORE hip ease, then scaled it smaller, because I had increased both the shoulder and bust measurements! duh. But it is very wearable...the ladies in my sewing guild liked the extra ease. BTW, the back neck depth is 0.75".

There is a bit of 'drapery' under the arms, both in front and back. Part of this is the excess bust ease, but also, part of it is due to the shoulder angles being the same as for WOVEN fabrics. I should have lowered the shoulder angle after all! I have decided that for next time, I will lower the back shoulder angle by .375" and will lower the front shoulder angle by .75"...twice as much in front as in back. You can see by the picture below that when I pinch the shoulders UP, the drapery is lessened.

So, I *think* I have finally figured out how to get a good dartless pattern using my Patternmaster Boutique software! Yes, it takes some manipulation, but not alot...and certainly much less manipulations that I have to go through to alter a commercial pattern! And it only took 11 years to figure it out! ;)

Oh, and the 'KK' in the title stands for Klassy Katz...the fabric store where this fabric was purchased!

Here are my drafting choices:

Style Name: 100520_4_dartless_tiny_dart
Date: 5/20/2010
Last Update: April 1, 2010
Chart: Trish 050710_4Drtls_tinydt

Garment Type: Blouse
Style: Blouse
Closure: Front Zipper
Front Neckline: Scoop
Back Neckline: Jewel
Hemline Sweep: Straight
Hemline Shape: Straight
Front Darts: Side
Back Darts: No Darts
Sideseam Shape: Fitted

Front Waist Darts: 2
Back Waist Darts: 1

Front Neckline Depth: 4
Back Neckline Depth: 0.75
Neckline Width: 1
Neckline Point: 0

Armhole Depth: 0
Dart Override: -0.625

Side/Arm Point: -1
Side/Waist Point: 0
Side/Hip Point: 0

Cf/Extension: 0
Cb/Extension: 0

Shoulder Pad: 0
Shoulder Point: 0

Finished Cb/Hem Length: 24
Hip Depth: 8

Bust Pt Vertical: 10.25
Bust Pt Horizontal: 5
Upper Front Dart Length: 1
Upper Back Dart Length: 1
Lower Front Dart Length: 4.75
Lower Back Dart Length: 4.75
Back Shoulder Dart Length: 3


Sleeve Style: Set In
Sleeve Underarm Seam: Tapered
Sleeve Hemline Shape: Straight
Sleeve Length: Short
Sleeve Cap Ease: 0.35
Sleeve Underarm Length: 2
Sleeve Overarm Length: 7.849
Sleeve Hem Circumference: 15
Sleeve Elbow Depth: 8
Sleeve Elbow Circum.: 10
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -0.75
Front Armhole Shape Down: -0.3 clicks
Back Armhole Shape Right: 0.2 clicks


Seam Allowance: 0.375
Hem Allowance: 2
Facing Width: 2

Chest Ease: 0
Waist Ease: 0
Hip Ease: 1


Body Measurements

Chest Circumference: 42******increased by 0.5”
Back Shoulder Width: 15.75
Neck Circumference: 13
Natural Waist: 35
Hip Circumference: 41
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight: 98:)
Bra Cup Size: D
Center Front Length: 14.5***reduced by 0.5”
Front Shoulder Width: 15
Front Shoulder Slope: 18***reduced by 0.5”
Shoulder Length: 5.375**********increased by 0.375”
Center Back Length: 16.5
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.875
Bicep Circumference: 12

Notes:
duplicating/improving NOVeDrtls6 CSL2

DARTLESS 4 has 42 bust and longer SHL...which makes Fneck .5" narrower than Bneck...so rotating bu dart closed will equalize the neck widths

As happens every summer, I am once again sewing DARTLESS knit tops. I am once again trying to create the perfect dartless pattern, which will create the perfect dartless top. Again.

This one is very similar to a pattern I created a few years ago which pretty closely duplicates a Coldwater Creek short-sleeved knit top.

Basically, the pattern's front shoulder point is dropped severely, as if the side bust dart was scooted upward and removed at the shoulder! Of course, that is NOT what I did. No, I spent hours (days? weeks? years?) figuring out which numbers to change so that the program would create this shape for me!

The RED pattern (below) is the pattern for the above top. The blue/green patterns are my basic block, using similar drafting choices as were used for this one...for example, with the bust dart in the front armhole. You can see how the RED pattern has a very dropped front shoulder, yet the back shoulder remains unchanged. To prevent that front armhole from being WAY too small, I used the DART OVERRIDE tool to put some of the bust dart into the front armhole. As you can see, there is not much change in the sleeve, which means there is not much difference in the armhole lengths between these two patterns.


Below, the same two patterns are aligned at the hem/waist. As you can see, the front pattern is shorter on the RED one than on the basic block...this is because I reduced the CENTER FRONT LENGTH measurement to account for the stretch of the fabric.

I know that the front of my body will stretch the knit fabric more than the back of my body, so I can get more length from a knit fabric than I would get from the same cut-length of a woven fabric. So I can reduce the length of the front pattern to start with.

Also, as mentioned before, to lower that front shoulder point I reduced the FRONT SHOULDER SLOPE MEASUREMENT even more than I reduced the CFL...to increase the angle of the front shoulder. This is to prevent 'sagging' of the knit on the side of my body.

But as you may have noticed, this pattern is NOT dartless. There is a little dart there in the front armhole. Yet, I want a DARTLESS pattern! So the rest of the patternmaking was done in the PATTERN EDITOR.

I simply extended the dart to the CF line then rotated out HALF of the dart width. Then I drew a new CF line to connect neck and hem. The remaining dart will be eased to the sleeve...or ignored! This dart-rotation DOES remove a little width from the front pattern at bust level. And if you look back up at the top two pattern images, you might notice that the RED pattern is narrower at bust level than the basic block to start with! That is because I also reduced the BUST CIRCUMFERENCE measurement by 1.5". As it turns out, that was too much, especially when combined with this alteration which also reduces the width at bust level. But the top is wearable, even if the fabric is not gorgeous.

Speaking of not-gorgeous fabric, I am thinking I will over-dye this, and maybe print/paint on it, too. I mean, really, with my brown hair turning grey, I really don't need to wear a little black and white print that kinda reads as grey! Actually, this is not as bad on me as some shades of brown are these days!

This method DOES create a wearable dartless knit top and, as I said, it is VERY similar to the size, shape and fit of Coldwater Creek's knit top (size L). But it DOES ride backward some (just like the CWC tops) and I would like to eliminate that phenomenon.

I have created and sewn another knit top since this one, and I changed the way I treated the shoulder angles...stay tuned!

FYI, here are the drafing specs:

Style Name: dartless_with_tiny_dart
Date: 6/8/2010
Last Update: April 1, 2010
Chart: Trish 050710_2Drtls_tinydt
Garment Type: Blouse
Style: Blouse
Closure: No Closure
Front Neckline: Scoop
Back Neckline: Jewel
Hemline Sweep: Straight
Hemline Shape: Straight
Front Darts: Armscye
Back Darts: No Darts
Sideseam Shape: Fitted
Front Waist Darts: 0
Back Waist Darts: 0
Front Neckline Depth: 2.5
Back Neckline Depth: 0.75
Neckline Width: 0.625
Neckline Point: 0
Front Neckline Shape Up: 0.4 clicks
Front Neckline Shape Right: -0.4 clicks
Armhole Depth: -0.5
Dart Override: -0.625
Side/Arm Point: -1
Side/Waist Point: 0
Side/Hip Point: 0
Cf/Extension: 0.5
Cb/Extension: 0
Shoulder Pad: 0
Shoulder Point: 0
Finished Cb/Hem Length: 24
Hip Depth: 8
Bust Pt Vertical: 10.25
Bust Pt Horizontal: 5
Upper Front Dart Length: 1
Upper Back Dart Length: 1
Lower Front Dart Length: 4.75
Lower Back Dart Length: 4.75
Back Shoulder Dart Length: 3

Sleeve Style: Set In
Sleeve Underarm Seam: Tapered
Sleeve Hemline Shape: Straight
Sleeve Length: Short
Sleeve Cap Ease: 0.19
Sleeve Underarm Length: 2
Sleeve Overarm Length: 7.182
Sleeve Hem Circumference: 14
Sleeve Elbow Depth: 8
Sleeve Elbow Circum.: 10
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -0.75
Front Armhole Shape Down: -1.8 clicks
Front Armhole Shape Left: 0.3 clicks
Back Armhole Shape Down: -0.5 clicks

Seam Allowance: 0.625
Hem Allowance: 2
Facing Width: 2
Chest Ease: 0
Waist Ease: 0
Hip Ease: 0

Body Measurements
Chest Circumference: 40
Back Shoulder Width: 15.75
Neck Circumference: 13
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: D
Center Front Length: 14.5
Front Shoulder Width: 15
Front Shoulder Slope: 17
Shoulder Length: 5.125
Center Back Length: 16.5
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.875
Bicep Circumference: 12

Silly Chenille

After seeing this technic demomstrated again at the April meeting of a local quilt guild, I decided to play with it at home. 'Faux Chenille' is basically mulitiple layers of fabric that are stacked, then channel-quilted on the diagonal (bias). The layers are then slashed between the rows of stitching, leaving only the bottom layer intack. Because the fabrics are cut on the bias, they will ripple, but usually not ravel too badly. This creates a 'chenille' effect.


For my sample, I chose a dark purple cotton for the bottom layer. I stacked several layers of rayon challis and a layer of what is probably polyester chiffon, followed by a green cotton and finally, a snake-printed polyester organza (or chiffon...I am never sure of these things!). I drew a line to guide my first row of stitching and becan.

Then I slashed between the rows with scissors. Now, there is a really cool tool that makes cutting this a cinch...but I didn't have it. I thought, "This is only a small sample...it will be fine." But boy! did my hand ache after all the cutting!

To make it more interesting, I cut the piece into quarters and rotated them then stitched them back together with a multi-stitch zigzag. Then the whole thing was washed and dried to make it 'bloom'.

Meanwhile, I had begun creating some silly flowers using various interesting fabrics from my stash...a velvet, a lame' (don't know how to get the ' in the right place on my keyboard!) and another scrap from my friend, Etta.

But the flowers were too large...or rather, the background was too small for the flowers!

So I layered up some more fabrics and began stitching again...this time, creating a V shape with my stitching. This way, I could get more interest without having to cut and rotate.

Once the stithcing was completed and this piece was washed and dried to make it 'bloom', I cut it into strips and added them around the outside edges of the first piece.

Then I began to work on the stems and leaves. I cut bias strips from a dark green polished cotton for the stems, and the leaves were cut (free-hand) from a sample swatch of upholstery fabric.

I roughly pinned the pieces in place until I decided what to put where...then I removed the pieces and added the stems, one at a time. The leaves were satin-stitched around the outside edges, as were the flowers.

Then I cut and sewed some black felt around the outside. That is as far as I got...it isn't finished! The felt isn't even cut well...just kinda whacked. But I will finish it eventually...

Catching up...Show ~n~ Tell!

I can't believe it is taking me so long to catch up on my life! April is just a blur...

It is already MAY and I still haven't shared my loot from the AQS Quilt Show in Paducah!

Ok, here goes:

I bought some books and special rulers. This book-- http://creativecurves.com/curvesaheadb.htm --and these rulers-- http://creativecurves.com/cc_mruler.htm --are to do some curved piecing. The rulers look like a 'hood' pattern piece to me! Vanessa, my companion at the show, already had the oval rulers and stopped in at the booth to ask how to use them (as she had forgotten). As I watched the creators explain to her how to use her rulers, I decided that *I* wanted some, too! Of course... :) So I bought the curved (radius) rulers, so as not to duplicate the ones Vanessa had...and I got a book as well so that I could remember WHY I had wanted these and what I planned to do with them!

I also bought this book from Elisa's Backporch...the Crazy Curves book and the 7" Crazy curves templates, as well as the 3½" Small Paths Template. She was in a brick warehouse across from the museum...and had laryngitis! http://www.backporchdesign.com/backporch.htm

I bought these fat quarters to go with a scrap quilt that I have started. Because I am not sure that I have enough scraps for an entire quilt, I bought more fat quarters in those colors to mix and match with the fabrics I already have. I might end up with WAY more than I need!

I got these fabrics just because I like them! some of the greens might go in the scrap quilt with the fabrics above...that one is a block of the month quilt...but they were to lovely to pass up! The bird print is like from an encyclopedia of birds!

I had decided to collect animal prints for a quilt, and so in each shop or booth, I looked to see if they had any and picked them up where I found them. Well, I now have SEVENTEEN animal prints—all different! Amazing that I got no duplications (of prints, not animals!). I hadn’t realized I had found quite that many! I am not exactly sure what I will make with them...perhaps a New York Beauty quilt?...but I have them now! :)

These were a couple of intersting Japanese fabrics that I couldn't pass up, along with a leaf and vine trim that was also calling my name.






The black roll is CHALK BOARD fabric! One can write on it with chalk and erase it, just like on a blackboard! I will make a small quilt for my neice with this.

The CHARM PACKS are Kaffe Fasset fabrics that I picked up at Hancock's of Paducah. They will make something interesting, but I am not sure what just yet!

I looked at several quilting aids at the show and the one I decided to buy is this one, the Fabulous Fabric Glide... http://cgi.ebay.com/FABULOUS-FABRIC-GLIDE-FREE-MOTION-QUILTING-GUIDE-/270544865325 ...two semi-hoops to use when doing free-motion quilting (but *not* on my HandiQuilter...on my regular machine, where I would be moving the fabric). These help grip the fabric and give you something to hold on to, rather than relying on finger tips and friction. This 'hoop' was taller than some of the other hoops...some of which were stacked 3 tall in order to better get a grip on them!

The underside has tiny little rubber grippers that will hold on...not foam rubber that will eventually wear out and crumble.

I also bought quite an assortment of 'stuff'...wonderful NECESSARY stuff! :) Like these blue foam blocks...they can be heated and molded around small items and then they become a rubber stamp! Just heat them back up to remove the molded imprint...and remold them at will!

The rubbing plates of insects and leaves are to be used with those paintsticks that I still haven't used, as could be both of the animal print stencils. And the tjanting tool is for batik...the soda ash is to prepare fabric for dying! See? All very necessary items!

These BAREROOTS things are actually kits for candle mats. I just thought they were cute! I got the recommended needles for hand sewing them, because that is polite...but I might do them by machine! I do love power tools, you know... :) The disappearing thread has already vanished...it is somewhere in my sewing room, I am sure!

I picked up several patterns that I couldn't live without...one in particular is for a purse insert. That just sounds like a good idea!

Who knows when I will find the time to do any of this...let alone ALL of it!

Currently, I have been working on creating a pattern for a new dartless top.

WHAT? you say.

Yep, every so often I feel the need for a little self-torture, so I go at it again! :)

And to make matters even MORE interesting, I decided I needed a new pants pattern (as my old one is now a bit tight across the middle! 8-0

I'll let ya know how that goes!