Wednesday, August 24, 2011

New Project, part two

This is how the quilt looked after all the blocks were sewn together.




Some people who saw it thought it was a sunset...some thought it was mountains out west.





I am calling it "My Place or Yours".





I wanted to add a band of flying geese across the upper part. So I layed a piece of exam table over the quilt and drew a curve, erasing and redrawing until I got it to suit me. Then I removed the quilt and refined the curve, adding a second line to form the other edge. I added vertical sections and drew in triangles...geese.





Then I cut this into manageable sections and began paper piecing.

The narrow sections were the hardest, as the pieces were so small. Who thought this was a good idea? Hmmmm...yep, that would be me. sigh.

The wider areas went fast and were no problem.





After seveal days of working on this (on and off) the string of geese was complete!






Now it was time to trim the edges and remove the paper from the back...always fun!






I pinned the geese to the quilt top, auditioning fabrics to use along the edge. Initially, my plan was to put a narrow piping along the edge of the geese...this would make it easier to attacch to the base. I decided on a dark red/maroon fabric and cut a strip, slipping in behind the geese. Here it is only on one side, either the top or the bottom, depending on the curve, and it doesn't really go across the whole thing (it is just a sample).




I tried putting the strip along BOTH edges of the geese (far right).




This went on for hours...on with the strip of dark red...off with the strip...moving it here or there. Eventually, I decided I really preferred the geese WITHOUT the strip, so no piping will be added. That will make application a little tougher, but I can do it.









The bottom edge is NOT square but is curved...like a ~ (only backwards!). I did that on purpose, but will probably need to add a strip of temporary fabric to the bottom so I can square it off so that I can load it onto the quilting frame to quilt!

Thursday, August 18, 2011

New Project

While cleaning and sorting through my stuff, I came across a bundle of fabric that was purchased this year at Paducah. It was a roll of fabric that was in a brown paper sack and only the outer fabric was visible. Like buying a pig in a poke...

Anyway, I had purchased this bundle because the outer fabric was part of a collection I was using on a quilt and I had hoped it would have other pieces of the same collection inside. No such luck! but the fabrics were nice enough...just not part of the collection I had hoped for.

So I began looking at these fabrics...sorting and putting them in order. I noticed a bunch of oranges. Hmmmmm... Didn't I also have another bundle of orange strips that had been given to me? Yep. I pulled them out too and began cutting the strips into wedges.

I had purchased a box of wax paper sheets at my local Sam's Club...these are for wrapping deli sandwiches, but to me, they seemed perfect for paper/foundation piecing! I began sewing the wedges to the wax paper sheets, starting with the one pink fabric and moving to the more red colors before using the oranges.

Once completed, the first row looked like this:

For the second row, I decided to make it a bit scrappier, and intentionally mixed up the wedges so that I would NOT end up with a row of a single fabric across the 6 blocks (this later turned out to be a mistake, but I didn't now it then).

I pulled other fabrics out of my stash to be used also, transitioning from orange to browns then greens then blues.



After completion of the 3rd row, it looked like this:

As you can see, the blocks are not sewn together, but are just pinned to a cardboard cutting mat...I don't yet have a real design wall.


I wasn't exactly thrilled with the way this was looking....the browns were all jumbled up where they met the oranges... there was no smooth transition.

I rearranged some of the blocks in that second row. Hmmm.... ok, better, but still not great.


I decided to rip and rearrange some of the wedges on the lower portion of the second row...the browns...to make a better transition. So much for the 'scrappy' look that I had intentionally done! No, I was much more satisfied with the look when the pieces were placed according to choice (as opposed to randomly).


Now, this was better.

I began sewing the blues, although at this point, I kinda liked it 'as is'...without any blue... but I continued making blocks.

Once the entire 4th row was finished, I was glad I had continued...the blues looked good.





Now on to row 5! As I layed these out, again, I was tempted NOT to sew them, thinking it was good enough already. But the wedges were cut and layed out in order...I might as well sew them.



Once the 5th row was added, I was ok with the blues, but the 2nd row was still bothering me!

I finally decided to rip and rearrange several of those random oranges in that second row. Here you can see the before and after...not a huge difference, but I was more pleased. There was one particular orange fabric that seemed out of place, and it appeared in every blockk in the row. it was removed entirely.


The blocks on the left haven't been joined together yet, but the blocks on the right have, so that does make a little difference in how they look as well!




PLUS, on the right, you might notice that I added another pink as well as a pale lilac to the upper edge. The pink on the top really bothered me and I considered cutting it off, but then I decided what it really needed was MORE pink! I wish I had had a large piece of that lilac, but that was all I had. Perhaps I'll find more.





Once I was pleased with the blocks, I began joining them into columns. My original plan was to cut each block to the same size, and there would be horizontal as well as vertical seams between each block---but I ended up joining the blocks (vertically) using the wedge angles so the horizontal seams are not really visible... they look just like all the other wedge seams! The vertical seams that join each column will be visible, however.



Once the blocks were joined, the strips were trimmed along the edges to make each column the same width.


I joined the strips ONLY as far down as the 'horizon'...where the green fabric met the blue.


I wanted the blue area to have a straight horizontal seam, like the surface of the water, so I sewed the upper blocks together using the wedge angles UNTIL I came to the bottom of the green fabric. Then I squared off the lower edge.




The lower (blue) blocks were also joined to each other using the wedge angles. But I squared off the upper edge of the blue sections so that when the upper strip was sewn to the lower (blue) strip, each column would have a horizontal seam there. Then, when each completed column was sewn to the next, the horizontal seams created a 'water level'. Or at least, that was my plan!





Stay tuned for part two.

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Tiered-Flounce Top

This Spring I bought a top that I really liked. It was a tiered-flounce top from Coldwater Creek. It only came in two colors and I wasn't crazy about the other color they offered, so I decided to try to make myself another one by copying it. It seemed like it would be fairly easy to do...after all, it appeared that it was just a bunch of strips of fabric sewn to a knit base. Kinda.

For my base, I found a men's XL T-shirt that was willing to be sacrificed...I mean, 'improved'. I straightened it out and folded it in half lengthwise. Then I did the same to the flounce top, which I layed on top of the men's T-shirt, aligning the center folds. Then, using my rotary cutter, I cut all around the outside of the top, leaving about a .5" seam allowance. I wasn't exact.




I cut the neckline for the higher BACK neck, but drew on the front neck, to be cut later (single layer). I also marked where the tiers should go.



Then I put this new 'base' onto a doubled sheet of paper and cut it again, so I'd have a paper pattern. I used ONE of the copies to create the tiers...I cut it apart on the lines I had drawn. To add flare to the tiers, I just slashed each one in several places and spread them open as I layed them on the fabric...I didn't bother to insert paper into the openings, as this wasn't a top I planned to make more than once.




Here you can see where I have spread the top tier...the one that includes the neck and shoulders. I was really just guessing at how much I should add...I wasn't even sure the original was flared! But this one would be.

Before I started cutting fabric, I suspected that I wouldn't have enought fabric...actually, I KNEW I wouldn't have enough! But I cut anyway...as if cutting would somehow create MORE fabric!

duh...
Sure enough, there was not enough fabric to cut all the tiers.

I went back to the store where I'd bought the fabric originally, but it had been many months and I didn't hold out much hope.

They didn't have any more.
But they did have this black and white spotty print and it was kinda neat so I got some of that to mix in.

I used my serger to put a lettuce-edge on the tiers, and used my coverstitch machine to attach them to the base fabric. Once all the tiers were added to the front and all the tiers were added to the back, I sewed the front and back together.

The neck and armhole edges were turned and coverstitched. I did trim away the base fabric in the neck and armholes so it wouldn't get too thick there.


Taking pictures of this top has been a trial! I have tried several times, and have yet to get any good ones! Sigh. I'll just share these...

















Thursday, August 4, 2011

Changes in the Sewing Room

Recently I have been doing some rearranging in my sewing room. I pushed my large cutting table off-center, toward the back wall.

I cleared out the pile of junk that had accumulated in the corner, and brought in a chair from another room.

The front wall, between the dormers, is completely void of furniture...the treadmill has been relocated as has the press.


The table that was under the window, which held the coverstitch machine, has been eliminated...it was just a card table and was always intended to be 'temporary', but at my house, 'temporary' sometimes is a long time! Now the coverstitch machine is sitting right beside my serger.


The whole wall is 'open' now...like a dance floor!


I removed all my fabric from these green cabinets and sorted through it... what I kept was rearranged/grouped and placed inside purchased bins for a neater appearance. The 'isle' between the cabinets and the cutting table is much narrower now, but I can still get the bins in and out, as well as open the doors on the island/cutting table and pull out the bins kept within.


I used to keep my ironing board right in front of the green cabinet, to the left of my sewing machine, so I could just pivot left and press when I was sewing. Now that the isle is narrower, I must find a new place for the ironing board!


The new light over the sewing machine is SO much brighter than the two mismatched lamps I had on my table before! I am no0t a huge fan of fluoroescent, but the light is bright and cool and it could be hung and plugged into an outlet. I REALLY wanted recessed lights, but that is a much bigger deal to provide!


So, "WHY," you ask, "are you doing all this rearranging?"

Because I have made a new purchase for the sewing room and it takes up space!








Yep, I got a long-arm quilting machine! Isn't that exciting? Well, it is to me! I have been dabbling with quilting for the last few years, and enjoy the piecing and designing but doing the actual quilting was always a challenge. Before, I have showed you the HandiQuilter frame that I was using with a Brother 1500 sewing machine...including the PVC handles I made to enable me to quilt from the front side.


But even with that set-up, I always dreaded the 'quilting' time, because I knew I would have trouble...skipped stitches, uneven stitch lengths, etc. It seemed to take forever to sew a tiny area.


Plus, the scale of the designs I could stitch was very small due to the size of the throat space on the machine.


So now, I can stitch larger designs!

I am still practicing, but am having fun!

I am now considering what lighting I will get for over the quilting machine. The fluorescent light made SO much difference over my sewing machine that I am considering getting a couple more to put over the longarm...but I hate the thought of all those cords and chains hanging down! But it is very apparent that I will have to get/make something...perhaps a light rail! :)
























Monday, July 4, 2011

Summer Fun (?)

I'd rather do anything than alterations.



I may have started out the month of July by playing, but I ended the month of June with alterations.

Sigh.

Now that my son has finished Pharmacy school (and passed his test, BTW...hooray!), he needs to wear the longer lab coats that signify that he is a doctor, as opposed to a student. But his body-shape is as hard to fit as mine is! He also has wide shoulders that are out of proportion with the rest of his frame.
Yep, to fit his shoulders, he must buy a size 48...yet his chest is really only 44". His hips are 41" and his waist is 34" (strange, but his numbers are curiously close to mine!).

The size 48 lab coat is NOT an athletic cut. Instead, it appears to be made for a big man. My son is not big...he just has broad shoulders. I did not go with him to shop for this coat (nor any previous lab coats)...there are people there who know how to fit a coat (or so one would think).

Anyway, the last time he bought a lab coat...the shorter, student version...they altered it for him. It was hilarious. Apparently, all they did is take a bunch of pleats through the back waist...released pleats sewn right through the back waist band, that, from the back, made it look like he was wearing a full skirt! He did NOT want it altered that way again and asked me to please adjust the new one for him.

How could I say no?


Please...tell me! I HATE alterations!




But I agreed and told him to bring it over...the night before we were leaving town for the lake!




He put it on and I pinched and pulled, pinning and letting him move...trying to figure out if there was any way to bring those huge armholes any closer to his body. His range of motion was inhibited by the armholes being too far out on his arm. The TOP of the armhole...the shoulder point...was in the right place, but the armholes angled outward at the bottom and his body angles inward there, putting the mid- and lower armhole out on his arm.


Eventually, I realized there was no way I could really tell what I needed to do without ripping out the sleeve.



So I did. That was a bit scary!



In this picture, I have pinned in (on his left side) the alterations I hoped to make...to the right in the picture (the arm holding the pin cushion)...and the other side is unchanged as of yet.


I have pinned out 1.5" inches of chest width at underarm level. I pivotted the existing armhole shape inward to this new chest width and redrew the armhole, then pinned the sleeve to that. at this point, I had not CUT anything. I could still put it back like it started out! But he liked it and wanted me to continue.


Although you cannot see a huge difference yet (because only one side is pinned yet), you CAN tell that the underarm area is higher and closer to his body. And he could FEEL a huge difference/improvement!

From the back, the pinned-underarm looks higher, but still not as close as we desired. However, the sleeves weren't enough too-long to enable me to reshape the sleeve cap into one that was flatter (like adding a cut-on gusset)...so I couldn't reshape the armhole too much and still reset that same sleeve.

In this picture, the (adjusted) left arm is on the left side of the picture (still holding the pin cushion).
Also notice that there are pins in the center back at waist. I decided to change that straight center back seam into a shaped center back seam.

Crazy, I know...


...but I needed to remove so much fullness at the waist, and taking it ALL from the sides impeded his arm movement. He NEEDED the extra body dart that a shaped back seam provides. So the back waist had to be nipped in, too. I was NOT looking forward to that, because there is an applied band across the back waist, as well as a vent at the hem!

I needed to take in the side seams all the way from underarm to hem...1.5" at underarm, 1.125" at waist, and .75" at hip/hem. Once I began, I realized there are also inseam pockets...well, not really pockets so much as openings to allow access to one's pant pockets. I had to rip and reposition those inward too! Nothing was simple.


Here's that pocket:


Here is the back...you can see the applied band across the back waist as well as the vent at the hem. Both had to be ripped and redone.


I ended up having to also rip out the entire HEM so I could take in both side seams and redo the vent!


Below, you can see how I reshaped the center back seam...I have drawn my new cutting line with a blue pen. I moved it inward .75" at the waist, continuing straight down at hip/hem. That removed 1.5" of excess waist fullness across the back.


The front armholes were not reshaped nearly as much as they needed to be, but I couldn't enlarge the sleeve head to fit a larger armhole, so I had to work with what I had. I just traced the original armhole, then pivoted it from the shoulder point until the underarm point was at the new chest-width point. The blue lines are my cutting lines...using 3/8" seam allowances.



The back armhole was also adjusted just as the front...by pivoting the original ah shape from the shoulder point.



Here you can see how much chest width I planned to remove at the sideseams at underarm. Removing 1.5" on each side takes out 6" total!


Once I got it all put back together (just about 10 pm!) he was pleased with the improved look. He had more arm mobility than he started with, but not as much as he'd have with a properly fitted coat. So, of course, he wants me to make him one!

We'll see...

 
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