Blue Floral Lycra, Part Deux

I have two garments sewn but haven't blogged about them! It is hard to sew and write at the same time...but I CAN chew gum and sew at the same time (FYI). :)

After the sleeve series, I decided to do my next test with wearable fabric, as opposed to continuing to use the throw-away. So I recut the blue floral lycra blouse that had been started BEFORE the sleeve series. I could reuse the front, but had to cut a new back, because I had significantly widened the back shoulders.

I had a hard time getting decent pictures of this! It was overcast, which seemed like a great day to shoot outside. But apparently, that isn't the case, as my pictures did NOT turn out well! Here is the best of the bunch.

I used a small amount of dart override (again?) to increase the size of the front AH. This was a bad idea (how many times will I try this before I realize it just ISN'T what I want?)...it created awful folds at the F-AH. What I *should* have done is increase the FRONT SHOULDER SLOPE measurement, to raise the shoulder tip, as well as increase that FRONT SHOULDER WIDTH to move the front shoulder tip outward. This would have given me a large enough F-AH without messing with the dart or mismatching the front and back underarm points. Next time.

Here are my settings:

Style Name: _0_0909_widerSWs_longerCFL
Chart: widerSWs_longer_cfl 9-09_Trish_

Garment Type: Blouse
Style: Blouse
Closure: Single Breasted
Front Neckline: Curved Vee
Back Neckline: Jewel
Hemline Sweep: Straight
Hemline Shape: Curved
Front Darts: Side
Back Darts: Shoulder
Sideseam Shape: Fitted

Front Waist Darts: 1
Back Waist Darts: 2
Button Size: 0.5
Number of Buttons: 13

Front Neckline Depth: 6
Back Neckline Depth: 0.75
Neckline Width: 0.25
Neckline Point: -0.25

Armhole Depth: 0.25
Dart Override: -0.125

Side/Arm Point: -0.5
Side/Waist Point: 0.75
Side/Hip Point: 0

Finished Cb/Hem Length: 25
Hip Depth: 8

Bust Pt Vertical: 10.5
Bust Pt Horizontal: 4.75

Sleeve Cap Ease: 1.39
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -0.75
Front Armhole Shape Down: -0.3 clicks
Back Armhole Shape Down: -0.5 clicks
Back Armhole Shape Left: -0.3 clicks

Chest Ease: 2
Waist Ease: 4
Hip Ease: 4


Body Measurements

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 18
Neck Circumference: 14.25
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.75
Front Shoulder Width: 15
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.875
Shoulder Length: 5.25
Center Back Length: 16.75
Back Shoulder Slope: 18.375
Bicep Circumference: 12
Notes:


As you can see by the back view, there are still some wrinkles to contend with! I do realize the back shoulder is now a bit too wide, and I did reduce the BSW a little for the next one.

I have gone round and round with whether or not lowering the back shoulder would pull those wrinkles out. Lowering the back shoulder point (by reducing the BSS measurement) would give me a larger back shoulder dart...which is bad on my body. Also notice...and I am not sure you can see it here in these pics...there is a tiny hint of a fold across the back neck, below the collar--the kind you get when the shoulders are too sloped! So I dare not make them much more sloped (lowered) or that will only get worse!

For my next one, I will lower the back neck depth even more (by .25") and see if that takes care of that fold (although, I have already sewn the 'next one' and since I didn't put a collar on it, I am not certain this issue has been resolved). Maybe on the next 'next' one.

But back to those wrinkles: Instead of reducing the BACK SHOULDER SLOPE measurement, I think I need to look at the width of the lower half of the back garment. I think the REAL problem here is the lack of adequate hip ease, coupled with back waist darts that are not large enough. Can't you just imaging this being better if there was a little MORE fabric at each side seam on the back, and also, if the back waist darts were sewn a little larger to pull some of the fabric from the side toward the center back? I can!

I used only 4" hip ease on this one...next time I will use 5" (which is what I usually use for a blouse, but used less since this fabric had Lycra).

NEXT TIME, I will still use the Side/Waist setting of .75, but (in addition to using more hip ease) I will also move the Side/Hip Point forward (-0.25) to swing that back sideseam out a bit, to provide more fabric over the bum. And I say, "next time", but I mean on the 'next' one I sew...which will NOT be the next one I blog about, since that one is already sewn! Confusing...I know. I really should get caught up!

BTW, I do realize this top doesn't match those pants. I just threw it on for the pictures over the pants I was already wearing...didn't try to create an outfit for this photo shoot! :) But I promise NOT to wear them together!

The Sleeve Series--boring!

I am kinda hesitant to post this, as it is just one more in a series of excrutiatingly boring blog posts! Who wants to read about this kind of stuff? No one! Even *I* would prefer to see what works and what is lovely to sew and wear! But I must document this, for my own sake (and reference) so bear with me yet again. I’ll try to keep it brief…


According to the company, there are guidelines that your patterns (and measurements) should reflect. Some of these include:

• The Center Front Measurement should be 1.5” less than the Center Back Measurement.
• Your WAIST should be located where your body indents the most between bust and hips, and this location will not feel ’natural’, but high.
• Your BUST CUP size should be chosen based on your RTW bra size.
• The WAISTLINE on the front DRESS pattern (and sloper) should be fairly straight across, rather than curve upward near the sideseam.
• The SHOULDER ANGLE on the FRONT pattern should be about the same as that on the BACK pattern.

Many of the measurement and setting changes I have tried/tested were attempts to follow these rules, hoping that might give me a better fit in garments with sleeves. I figured that if I was having less than satisfactory results, perhaps it was because I wasn’t following the ‘rules’. Perhaps my waist was too low? Perhaps my CFL was too long as compared to my CBL? That sort of thing.

Based on the fit of that last blue cotton/Lycra blouse, I worked out some measurement and setting changes that I hoped would improve the fit of my PMB blouse/sleeves and cut a basic bodice from this ‘loverly’ blue floral decorator fabric in my muslin stash (it was a gift!). I put sleeve after sleeve into this bodice…evaluating, making changes, redrafting, then putting it the next sleeve! I exhausted the supply of that fabric, and began cutting the sleeves from a second ‘luvly’ fabric (also a gift!). After trying 4 sleeves in this same bodice without relieving the binding, I began to again change the measurement chart to change the armholes…because, apparently, the AHs weren’t ‘just right’ after all. With each change to the armhole, I would try another sleeve.

The PMB sleeve is now more level at the hem (cross-grain)…which hopefully means I am getting my pattern’s F and B armhole depths closer to being correct for my body. But there is STILL that pulling at the front armhole…the feeling of constriction…of not being able to stand to wear this to do anything.

I tried lowering the cap height by .5” and by 1.25” and everything in between! I tried a cap height lowered 1.25” with only .66 cap ease. I tried a cap height lowered 1” with 1.38” cap ease. I’ve used a minus .5 cap height with 1.5” cap ease. And I’ve used a minus .5 cap height with .78” ease….a cap height of -.75” with .8” cap ease…etc. My conclusion? The problem is NOT the sleeves! It is the armhole…and the bodice!!!

I got poufiness in the back, so I reduce the BSW (to reduce the size of the bk sh dart)…then the back was too tight, so I had to increase the BSW!
I go round and round with this! I needed a wider shoulder area…but couldn’t figure out exactly what combination of numbers to use. I just COULD NOT get a comfortable blouse with sleeves!

Notice I am now using a wider neck circumference. That is one of the chart changes I decided to make since the last blue cotton/Lycra. For over a year now, I have been using a 13” neck circumference (although my neck actually measures 14.25”), but with these wider shoulders, I need a wider back neck opening, to control the size of the back shoulder dart. The front neck width remains as it was…so the neck on the back pattern is much wider than the neck on the front pattern.

Oh, and I am again testing with the NECK POINT tool to move the neck point on the pattern backwards. I can use a longer CBL, which produces a longer B-ah and smaller bust dart, then use the NP tool to move the neck end of the shoulder seam backwards where it looks better.

Anyway, I will report my conclusions and solutions later…for now, here is the sleeve series.

Some of the sleeve numbers will not coincide with the number of fingers I am holding up. Ignore the fingers….the sleeves are matched up with the correct patterns and statistics.
__________________________________________________________________

Sleeve 1--- low cap height, low cap ease. Binding at front arm.
No, Marilyn, I am NOT sniffing! :-)






Armhole Depth: 0.25
Dart Override: -0.25
Sleeve Cap Ease: 0.66
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -1.25
Back Armhole Shape Right: 0.3 clicks

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 16.25
Neck Circumference: 14.25
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.5
Front Shoulder Width: 14.5
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Shoulder Length: 5.125
Center Back Length: 15.75
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.75
Bicep Circumference: 12

___________________________________________________________________



Sleeve 2 (3 fingers, don’t ask)…best so far…. The PMB sleeves are now more level at the hem…which hopefully means I am getting my pattern’s F and B armhole depths closer to being correct for my body. But there is STILL that pulling at the front armhole…the feeling of constriction…of not being able to stand to wear this to do anything. Also, it has a poufy cap but is better looking than any of the previous others. Plus, did I mention that the hem (cross-grain) is now fairly level?!



Chart: Shrtr_CBL_SHP_frward 8-31_Trish_
_0_0831_wdnk_shrtCBL_NEW_SLV
Armhole Depth: 0.25
Dart Override: -0.25
Sleeve Cap Ease: 1.44
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -0.75
Back Armhole Shape Right: 0.3 clicks

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 16.25 Neck Circumference: 14.25
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.5
Front Shoulder Width: 14.5
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Shoulder Length: 5.125
Center Back Length: 15.75
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.75
Bicep Circumference: 12
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________





Sleeve 3— Same Chart: Shrtr_CBL_SHP_frward 8-31_Trish_



This is a self-drafted pattern…the Aldrich sleeve. This one has a low cap height, comparable to PMB’s (-.75) cap height. Not pretty. And not really any better for comfort.












________________________________________________________________





Sleeve 4-- again, same chart
Chart: Shrtr_CBL_SHP_frward 8-31_Trish_
…upper cap was shifted forward 0.25”, then mid and lower front moved outward 0.5”. This was done in an effort to provide the front of the sleeve with more ease. Didn’t work. It MUST be the armholes!

_0_0831_wdnk_shrtCBL_NEW_SLV
Armhole Depth: 0.25
Dart Override: -0.25
Sleeve Cap Ease: 1.44
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -0.75
Back Armhole Shape Right: 0.3 clicks

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 16.25**
Neck Circumference: 14.25
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.5
Front Shoulder Width: 14.5
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Shoulder Length: 5.125
Center Back Length: 15.75
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.75
Bicep Circumference: 12
________________________________________________________________


Sleeve 5—In an effort to change the armholes, I changed chart this time--- to widen the BSW, with NO RESHAPING of ah. I used a lower cap height again…-1...with a ‘normal-high’ amount of cap ease…but still, no cigar. It’s got to be the armholes!

0_0901_wdnk_shrtCBL_shp_forw_1cp_ht
Armhole Depth: 0.25
Dart Override: -0.25
Sleeve Cap Ease: 1.37
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -1

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 16.5**
Neck Circumference: 14.25
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.5
Front Shoulder Width: 14.5
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Shoulder Length: 5.125
Center Back Length: 15.75
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.75
Bicep Circumference: 12







In order to test a wider shoulder without starting over with a new bodice, I would scab on pieces of fabric to the bodice. I would superimpose the NEW pattern over the old one and PRINT…then align the old pattern to the existing bodice and cut the new pattern based on the additional lines. I can make multiple changes this way, widening the shoulders, raising the armholes, etc.

___________________________________________________________________


Sleeve 6—…BSW widened even more (another .25” ) to 16.75 (remember, that is what I measure across the blades at mid back, even though the shoulders measure less).
---front of sleeve was altered manually to move seam outward 0.5”…to widen mid part of front cap where pulling is. But still not great.


0_0901_wdnk_shrtCBL_CpHt_5
Armhole Depth: 0.25
Dart Override: -0.25
Sleeve Cap Ease: 1.5
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -0.5

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 16.75***
Neck Circumference: 14.25
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.5
Front Shoulder Width: 14.5
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Shoulder Length: 5.125
Center Back Length: 15.75
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.75
Bicep Circumference: 12
____________________________________________________________________


Sleeve 7--- I lowered the cap height to .75 and cap ease to .8”…and used the same BSW (16.75). Still, not right…and this sleeve wings out (as if it needs a higher cap height!). There seems to be excess fullness at the back of the sleeve and armhole.


Armhole Depth: 0.25
Dart Override: -0.25
Sleeve Cap Ease: 0.8
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -0.75
Back Armhole Shape Right: 0.2 clicks

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 16.75
Neck Circumference: 14.25
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.5
Front Shoulder Width: 14.5
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Shoulder Length: 5.125
Center Back Length: 15.75
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.875
Bicep Circumference: 12
____________________________________________________________________


Sleeve 8--- The BSW was narrowed again by .5” because of the fullness in #7. It looks ok-ish, although there isn’t much cap ease. The bust dart is too large, resulting in ss pulls. And still, there is the sleeve binding.


Armhole Depth: -0.25
Dart Override: 0
Sleeve Cap Ease: 0.74
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -0.75
Front Armhole Shape Down: -0.7 clicks
Back Armhole Shape Down: -0.5 clicks

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 16.25
Neck Circumference: 14.25
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.5
Front Shoulder Width: 14
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Shoulder Length: 4.75
Center Back Length: 15.75
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.75
Bicep Circumference: 12

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Sleeve 9 is actually LESS comfortable than 8, and provides LESS mobility! The Ah depth was raised .25”. Making the FSW narrower just caused the front to pull with arm movement. I should have known better than to try this again…been there, done that! But hope dies hard…but wait…#8 had this same reduced FSW…it is the BSW that is different! The one with the wider BSW is less comfortable? Hmmm…that makes no sense! Also, again, this sleeve ‘wings out”due to inadequate cap height (-.75).

Neckline Point: -0.25***
Armhole Depth: -0.25
Dart Override: 0

Sleeve Cap Ease: 0.72
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -0.75

Front Armhole Shape Down: -0.7 clicks

Back Armhole Shape Down: -0.5 clicks


Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 17
Neck Circumference: 14.25
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.25
Front Shoulder Width: 14
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Shoulder Length: 4.75
Center Back Length: 16.25
Back Shoulder Slope: 18.125
Bicep Circumference: 12

Also, this one (#9) creates a larger bust dart than #2 did, and #2 hung much nicer at the sideseams. These darts are just too large…so I guess D.O. is the way to go for me!
Notice that on THIS one (9) I used the neck point tool. By making the CBL longer and making the CFL shorter, then moving the neck point backwards (.25) using the tool, I get a smaller, more-level bust dart, plus, the front ah is a little lower. However, if I am gonna have to use the D.O. tool anyway, this might not be necessary after all!

It seems that the most comfortable sleeves are the ones with the most cap ease (duh). I am not a fan of gathers in my sleeve heads, but perhaps if I wasn’t using decorator fabrics, they could be better eased and pressed out.
____________________________________________________________________

This next one (#10) isn’t too bad. The bust dart is smaller again, so the sideseam hangs better. The sleeve looks like it needs more cap height, though. The sleeve's cross-grain at hem is *almost* level…slightly higher in front. I only used -.125 D.O. this time…using -.25 would increase the front sleeve a bit more and perhaps level that hem. But I hesitate to make the F-ah too large, because I don’t want to cause the garment to ride to the back with wear.


The armhole depth seems high, though. I know, others keep telling me to raise my armhole depth, but it seems high.

Chart: longerCBL_wdr_FSW 9-03_Trish_
_0_0903b_reg_FSW_NP_DO25

Armhole Depth: 0
Dart Override: -0.125

Sleeve Cap Ease: 1.4
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -0.75
Front Armhole Shape Down: -0.7 clicks
Back Armhole Shape Down: -0.5 clicks

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 17
Neck Circumference: 14.25
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.25
Front Shoulder Width: 14.5
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Shoulder Length: 5
Center Back Length: 16.25
Back Shoulder Slope: 18.125
Bicep Circumference: 12


I think I will alter the opposite side of the garment, too. I have been adjusting one side and comparing that to the opposite, best-so-far side, but I think it is time to make both sides the same.

****

Ok, now BOTH sides of this garment are cut from the same pattern! And it feels better…pretty good! There is still some binding at the front armholes, but not nearly as bad as before. I wonder if this is ‘as good as it gets’? The back seems to be fairly smooth, and so far, I don’t think it is slipping to the back with wear…we’ll see! Oh, and the armhole depth doesn’t seem so high anymore, now that BOTH sides of the garment are the same.

I am up to a 17” BSW…I wonder if I could go wider? :) I am really ready to make some WEARABLE clothes! But I can sort of imagine this one being better with even WIDER shoulders!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Fast forward a week. In an attempt to eliminate the remaining wrinkles in back, I decided to try lengthening the CBL…but NOT the BSS. This should give me more length over the blades. I decided to go big…adding 0.5” to the CBL. This puts .25” above the armhole depth and .25” below it. To continue using the same muslin, I had to scab on another piece at the neck and shoulder, plus, I needed to slash the back horizontally (at bust level) and insert a .25 piece….which meant a .25” reduction in the size of the bust dart, too. No changes to the sleeve.



Style Name: _0_0909_noNP_DO25
Chart: longerCFL_no_NP 9-09_Trish_

Neckline Point: 0
Armhole Depth: 0
Dart Override: -0.125

Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -0.75
Front Armhole Shape Down: -0.7 clicks (USED SAME SLEEVE AS #10)
Back Armhole Shape Down: -0.5 clicks

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 17
Neck Circumference: 14.25
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.5
Front Shoulder Width: 14.5
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Shoulder Length: 5
Center Back Length: 16.25
Back Shoulder Slope: 18.125
Bicep Circumference: 12



After making these changes (called 11), I could see that I had mixed results…I am STILL getting those wrinkles (side view) that remind me of a hammock (this hammock is hung on the blades and boobs!). More length was good, but I needed it ALL to be above ah level. The smaller dart was not good. So I ripped and restored the length of the back between ah and waist, and restored the size of the bust dart. I scabbed on even MORE fabric at the neck and shoulders to raise them further. But this time, I also decided to widen the BSW again….this time, to 17.5”. With the increased back length, the now-wider shoulder width did NOT steal from the sleeve…the sleeve remained the same.

To increase back length, I add fabric at the top of the neck and shoulders, then recut.

_________________________________________________________________

Style Name: _0_0909_wider_BSW
Chart: wider_BSW_ 9-09_Trish_
Neckline Point: -0.25
Armhole Depth: 0.25
Dart Override: 0
AGAIN, SAME SLEEVE as #10
Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 17.5
Neck Circumference: 14.25
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 42
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.25
Front Shoulder Width: 14.5
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Shoulder Length: 5
Center Back Length: 16.75
Back Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Bicep Circumference: 12

This one (#12) was much better! I still have the slightest feeling of binding at the front sleeve, but it is getting so much better! The wider shoulders are a good thing, as is the longer center back length. There is still a bit of pouf at the release of the bk sh dart, though.

However, I can now see that the front length also needs to be increased, to help eliminate the ‘hammock effect’ in front. I want ALL the extra length to be ABOVE ah depth, though, so I’ll have to use negative Dart Override with this longer CFL/FSS.

Plus, I think the shoulders should be even wider, although I wish to maintain the width across the mid-back at 16.75”, which is what I measured there. I will use a few inward clicks on the AH shape tool after widening the BSW to 18!!!

This next pattern looks good enough to try in REAL fabric, so I am going to use the remainder of the blue floral cotton/Lycra to test this out! Wish me luck!

I have been doing a series of sleeves, trying to eliminate that binding I get with forward arm movement.

But let me back up a bit.

First I did this blue floral blouse of cotton/lycra.

I know that it isn’t smart to use lycra when you’re still working out the fit, but I was ready to end up with a wearable garment!
*
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* But right away, I had problems.
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Look at the poufiness at the release of the back shoulder dart. Even before I put the sleeves in, I could see that that would NOT do! So I redrafted and reduced the BACK SHOULDER WIDTH by .5” to reduce the width of that bk. sh. dart by .25”, also reducing the BSS slightly to maintain the height of the shoulder point at this narrower width. BETTER.











Eventually, I eliminated the shoulder dart entirely…I cannot remember exactly what I did, but there is no dart sewn now. I should take immediate notes, as I forget too easily! Anyway, the blouse has no bk sh dart at all and is smoother across the upper back.

Armhole Depth: 0.25
Dart Override: 0

Sleeve Cap Ease: 1.38
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -0.75
Back Armhole Shape Down: -0.1 clicks
Back Armhole Shape Right: 0.3 clicks**then was changed to--
Back Armhole Shape Right: 0.5 clicks after making the shoulder narrower

Chest Circumference: 41.5
Back Shoulder Width: 16.25**this was changed from 16.75
Neck Circumference: 13
Natural Waist: 34
Hip Circumference: 40.5
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 66
Weight:
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.5
Front Shoulder Width: 15
Front Shoulder Slope: 19
Shoulder Length: 5.125
Center Back Length: 16.25
Back Shoulder Slope: 17.25**changed from 17.375
Bicep Circumference: 12


Ok, so, I cut and inserted the sleeves. Hmmm. Not perfect…there were still some odd folds…still poufy back there. And the SHOULDER POINT is way too far toward the back! Like, by nearly an inch! Oh dear. Plus, the armholes are not just right. I couldn’t put my finger on it exactly, but there was something ‘off’. The balance between front and back AHs is off…look at how the garment raises up with arm movement!

Plus, the blouse was too tight in the hips! This caused pulls toward the sideseam...like I need a few MORE pulls! Somewhere along the way I had reduced my hip size...trying to use REAL numbers as opposed to using what had worked in the past. Dummy me. I have increased the number for the future.

I only had a little more of this fabric so I needed to make sure I was comfortable with the pattern before I cut the rest of it!

That is when I decided to put this fabric aside, and pull out the throw-away stuff! I will come back and make something from this stuff once I know what it is that I want to do.

Moving the potting bench

My forearms are SO bruised! I look like I have been man-handled! We’ve been having trouble with our cable tv, so the repairman has come out the last two days. The outside connection box is directly behind my potting bench, a huge heavy wooden piece that I built years ago when the kids outgrew their tree fort (we disassembled the tree fort and reused the lumber in various ways, including making this potting bench). Well, when the cable guy comes, I always have to help him move the potting bench away from the house so he could get to the connection box. Because the bench’s frame is recessed at the sides, lifting and carrying it causes the edge of the top surface to rest (heavily) on my forearms…which bruises them in no time!

The guy who came yesterday was not able to solve the signal problem, so I knew I’d have to go through this bench-moving again today. So, first thing this morning, I decided to clean it off, throwing away MANY old pots I had been saving, as well as metal plant identification labels (hey, if I can’t remember the plant name, who cares?!), a galvanized floral bucket as well as two other galvanized buckets (that leaked) and miscellaneous other things I had treasured enough to save, but have yet to use them in some creative way. Then, in a stroke of genious, I pulled out the red wagon…one of my favorite tools! I believe that no matter what age your kids are (or even if you have NO kids!) everyone should have a wagon. It is wonderful for moving stuff! I tilted and dragged and eventually, got the wagon under the lower shelf of the potting bench, so that I could drag/drive the wagon and thus, move the bench out of the corner of the yard, through some flower beds, under the arbor and finally, onto the patio, where I began disassembling parts of it! I decided it was silly to leave it where I had it when I have to move it several times a year (our cable seems to have problems a lot!) but it is just too large to use on the patio as-is. So I will rebuild it when I get a chance, making it less deep front-to-back, and maybe less wide, side-to-side. But today, so that it would fit UNDER the kitchen window that overlooks the patio, I removed a good bit of the upper back. I hate the design of that part, anyway! My bench was the prototype…I built and sold several others after perfecting the design…but my own bench remained the way it started out. I think I’ll change it to be more similar to the ‘improved’ designs! Here is a picture of one of the benches I made…delivered in the rain! You can see how large it is. The boards on the back of this one are vertical…mine were horizontal, and the horizontal layout didn’t look nearly as nice. I will rebuild mine to have vertical backing, but shorter.

It was nearly 2pm when I finally came inside…I had not had breakfast yet! So my sewing got a late start.